Gorilla Trekking in Uganda: A Journey into the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
- Mandy Brown
- Jul 17
- 4 min read
In September 2019, my husband and I embarked on a long-awaited journey to East Africa. Our first stop: Uganda, for an unforgettable trek to visit the endangered Mountain Gorillas.
We arrived in Entebbe and spent the night at the Protea Hotel, perched on the shores of Lake Victoria. With a surface area of nearly 60,000 square kilometres, it’s the world’s second-largest freshwater lake by surface area after North America’s Lake Superior. We couldn’t even see the other side! Although we were told the hippos and crocodiles steer clear of this part of the lake… I still wasn’t tempted to take a dip.
From the moment we stepped off the plane at Entebbe Airport, I felt like I’d travelled back in time. The airport still bears a striking resemblance to how it looked during the infamous 1976 Air France hijacking. If, like me, you watched the film Entebbe released last year, you’ll understand the eerie sense of history. Fortunately, a new terminal is currently under construction, but for now, the past still lingers in plain sight.
From Entebbe, we flew to Kisoro Airstrip near the southern border of Uganda, where we were met by our ranger, Jo. With our 15kg of gear loaded into the back of the Land Rover, we drove two hours on mostly dirt roads deep into the mountains.
Our arrival at Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge was both a relief and a revelation. After passing through village after village showing signs of deep poverty—remnants of Uganda’s turbulent past, including internal conflict, genocide, HIV, and Ebola—the lodge felt like a beacon of hope. Impressively, 95% of the staff are from local villages, and the lodge itself operates in partnership with 14 nearby communities. A committee formed by these villages receives a portion of the lodge’s annual revenue to fund community projects—an inspiring model of sustainable tourism.
Set on a forested ridge near the entrance to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge features eight volcanic stone cottages with sweeping views to the Virunga Volcanoes of Rwanda and, on clear nights, the glowing Nyiragongo Volcano in Congo. Each cottage includes a bedroom, ensuite with walk-in shower, separate lounge, and a veranda perfect for taking in the misty mountain views. Meals are prepared with fresh local ingredients and enjoyed in the dining room beside a roaring fire or privately in your cottage.
After settling into our cottage, tucked into the forest with panoramic views across to Rwanda, we took a walk to a nearby village. That afternoon, we were guided back into the forest to meet members of the Batwa community.
The Batwa, an indigenous Pygmy group, once lived in the Bwindi forest until 1991, when they were displaced to protect the Mountain Gorillas. Once hunters and gatherers, they now try to adapt to a more agrarian lifestyle on the forest’s edge. Though their relocation remains controversial, we were honoured to learn about their culture through an energetic and heartfelt performance. Like the gorillas, the Batwa are endangered too—in culture, in tradition, and in way of life.
The next morning was the moment we’d been waiting for: our Gorilla Trek.
After arriving at the park base, we were divided into small groups of eight—matching the number of habituated gorilla families—and briefed on the trek ahead. As someone not exactly known for my fitness, I made it clear I needed the “easy” route. Fortunately, some trackers had located a nearby family the night before. With a porter each (essential, even for the fittest), we began our trek through steep, slippery terrain.
After about two hours, we met our overnight trackers and were led quietly into the dense forest. Our ranger, armed with a machete, gently cleared the path.
Our first sighting was magical—a young male perched in a small tree, watching us as curiously as we watched him. I couldn’t stop smiling. We followed him deeper into the forest until we came upon his family—the Nshongi Group, a family of 11. We were lucky enough to see eight of them, including the commanding Silverback.
The Silverback held court in the centre, surrounded by his females and playful babies. At one point, he thumped his chest—a sound like coconuts clapping together—to demand attention. It was a surreal moment. He allowed us to come remarkably close, tolerating our presence with what felt like quiet dignity.
Mountain Gorilla encounters are strictly timed to just one hour—a rule our ranger enforced firmly. That hour, however, was unforgettable. With only around 1,000 Mountain Gorillas left in the wild and none surviving in captivity, Uganda’s conservation efforts are to be applauded.
We did just one trek (which was plenty for me!), although my husband would have happily done a second. Unfortunately, additional permits are hard to come by unless booked far in advance—there were no cancellations.
If this experience isn’t already on your travel bucket list, add it now.
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