Siem Reap: Ancient Temples & a Modern Revival
- Kerry Graham
- Jan 15
- 6 min read
Siem Reap population 1,100,000 million people and mostly widely recognised by travellers from around the world as the home of Angkor Wat and Pub Street!
Formally 8 Street but dubbed Pub Street since circa 2008 by backpackers and travellers from around the world. 100 metres of restaurants, clubs, entertainment, and bars with draught beer at USD .75 cents and ‘three for two’ continuous happy hour, it is a lively spot! Revamped during COVID with new roads, footpaths, and a sewerage system, this is a safe and vibrant evening stop. Some now miss the more authentic, but grubbier vibes of its
earlier years. This now a tourist spot rather than a place to ‘hang out’ and meet the locals.
We stayed at the nearby Park Hyatt which is an excellent location. Formerly the De La Paix we first stayed here in 2011 as a family. This is a tranquil oasis and the hotel I recommend to my clients. On arrival you are offered a welcome blend of juice and a shoulder massage by a member of the spa team. Just a teaser for the fabulous full menu of treatments on offer. There is a gorgeous central courtyard which opens from the dining room and lobby. Cultural shows in the evening. During breakfast there are various stations set up where you can try fresh coconut, weaving, food delicacies, lotus flower folding to name a few. Someone plays traditional music softly. A lovely way to start the day and introduce Cambodian crafts and culture to the hotel guests. The food and the service is outstanding. Guests are also given a complimentary 20-minute tuk tuk tour as an introduction to the city. A fantastic way to get your bearings.
There are wonderful markets, many great restaurants, numerous spas, and street side tanks where you can dip your feet to have fish clean (eat) away the dead skin! Not for the ticklish! I recommend a three-night stay to give yourself two full days to explore.
The highlight and main drawcard of Siem Reap is undoubtedly Angkor Wat, along with Angkor Thom, Bayon and Ta Phom.
Experiencing Angkor Wat at sunrise is one of those travel moments that stays with you. As the first light begins to rise behind the five iconic towers, the reflection shimmers gently across the moat and the temple slowly reveals itself. There’s a quiet stillness at that hour — people naturally lower their voices, cameras pause, and for a brief moment it feels as though time stands still. It’s incredibly moving, and a powerful reminder of just how sacred and significant this place truly is.
Once inside, the sheer scale is astonishing. The galleries seem to stretch endlessly, with walls covered in intricate bas-relief carvings telling ancient Hindu stories, from the Churning of the Ocean of Milk to rows of graceful apsaras dancing through stone. These carvings reflect Angkor Wat’s origins as a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu, before its transition over time into a Buddhist place of worship — a spiritual evolution that adds yet another layer of meaning to the site. Walking through these corridors with a knowledgeable guide brings the history, symbolism, and craftsmanship of the Khmer Empire vividly to life.
As you climb higher, the experience becomes quieter and more reflective. The steep stairways are deliberately symbolic, representing the journey towards the heavens, and from the upper terraces the views across the complex and surrounding jungle are breathtaking. Whether you experience Angkor Wat at sunrise or return again at sunset, when the stone glows a soft golden hue and the crowds thin away, it leaves a lasting impression — one of deep spirituality, human brilliance, and a sense of place that is impossible to forget.
Entering Angkor Thom feels like stepping into a lost city. Once the last great capital of the Khmer Empire, Angkor Thom is enclosed by an imposing laterite wall and wide moat, with grand causeways guarded by rows of stone deities leading through its monumental gates. Built in the late 12th century by King Jayavarman VII, the city was designed as both a political and spiritual centre, housing royal palaces, temples, and ceremonial terraces. Even today, its vast scale hints at the power and ambition of the empire at its height.
At the very heart of Angkor Thom stands the extraordinary Bayon, instantly recognisable by its many serene stone faces gazing out in all directions. There are more than 200 of these enigmatic faces carved into the temple’s towers, their expressions calm, watchful, and faintly smiling. Some believe they represent Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion, while others suggest they are a likeness of Jayavarman VII himself — a symbolic fusion of king and deity watching over his people.
Bayon rewards slow exploration. Its lower galleries are adorned with remarkably detailed bas-reliefs depicting everyday life in the Khmer Empire — bustling markets, fishing scenes, battles, festivals, and domestic moments — offering a rare and vivid glimpse into daily life centuries ago. Unlike the grand mythological stories carved at Angkor Wat, these scenes feel human and relatable, grounding the temple in lived experience rather than legend alone.
As the light shifts throughout the day, Bayon continually changes character. Early morning or late afternoon brings softer shadows that accentuate the carvings and lend the faces an almost lifelike presence. Wandering through its maze-like corridors, surrounded by towering stone visages, is both humbling and quietly powerful — an experience that lingers long after you leave Angkor Thom, and one that perfectly complements a visit to Angkor Wat itself.
Modern technology continues to reveal more hidden ruins throughout the Angkor complex, many of which are intentionally left undisturbed. Of all the temples I’ve visited over the years, Ta Prohm remains my favourite. Sadly, we didn’t have time to return on this visit, so the images shared are from a previous journey — but the memories of being there are still incredibly vivid.
Ta Prohm is a Buddhist monastic complex built in 1186 AD during the reign of King Jayavarman VII, and unlike many of the other temples, it has been left largely as it was found. Huge silk-cotton and strangler fig trees spill over the ruins, their reptile-like roots wrapping around walls, doorways, and towers. This extraordinary blend of nature and ancient architecture is exactly why I love Ta Prohm so much — it feels raw, atmospheric, and deeply authentic, as though you’ve stepped into another time.
In my opinion, Ta Prohm is best visited at sunrise. The early morning mist, combined with the soft light and shadows filtering through the trees, adds to its eerie beauty and sense of mystery. It’s a place to wander slowly and without a plan, allowing yourself to get a little lost in its maze-like pathways. While many know it today as the “Tomb Raider Temple,” for me Ta Prohm is far more than a movie location — it’s a powerful reminder of how nature ultimately reclaims even the greatest human achievements, and an experience that stays with me long after leaving.
Just outside Siem Reap is Tonlé Sap, the great lake at the heart of Cambodia, offers a completely different perspective on life here. Spending time on Tonlé Sap really brought home just how many people rely on this lake for their way of life. It’s estimated that over a million people depend on Tonlé Sap, with many thousands living directly on the water or in stilted villages along its edges. Life here is entirely dictated by the seasons, as the lake swells dramatically during the monsoon and then retreats again in the dry months — something these communities have adapted to over generations.
People live on Tonlé Sap because the lake provides everything they need. It’s one of the most productive freshwater ecosystems in the world and supplies the majority of Cambodia’s freshwater fish, supporting families through fishing, farming, and trade. For many, this isn’t just where they live — it’s who they are. Their connection to the water runs deep, and witnessing the resilience, resourcefulness, and strong sense of community here was one of the most memorable and humbling experiences of my time in Cambodia.
Visiting one of the floating villages is both fascinating and humbling. Homes, schools, shops, and even churches float or stand on tall stilts, rising and falling with the lake’s water levels. Seeing daily life unfold on the water — children rowing to school, mothers canoeing themselves to the store, fishermen tending their nets — is a powerful reminder of the resilience and adaptability of the local communities, and an experience that adds real depth and context to any visit to Siem Reap.
Siem Reap today is a destination of contrasts — ancient and modern, energetic and serene. Beyond the temples that draw travellers from across the globe, it’s the warmth of the people, the evolving city, and the sense of history layered into everyday life that linger longest. Whether it’s wandering temple ruins at sunrise, unwinding with a spa treatment, or simply soaking up the atmosphere over a leisurely breakfast or evening stroll, Siem Reap rewards those who take the time to experience it fully. It’s a place I’ve returned to more than once, and one I continue to recommend with confidence — because every visit reveals something new.
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Kerry
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