To the Edge of the Map: Kerry’s Ross Sea Expedition with Ponant
- Kerry Graham
- Jan 25
- 5 min read
This time last year, I was putting the finishing touches to my packing cubes. Expedition gear was scattered across the spare room, and the excitement was building fast. Antarctica does that to you — even before you leave, it gets under your skin.
In January 2025, Murray and I travelled with a small group of friends and clients (who are now very much friends) on Ponant’s Scott and Shackleton's Ross Sea Expedition aboard Le Soleal. This is not the Antarctica most people know. The Ross Sea is remote, raw, and uncompromising — and for those reasons, profoundly special.
Life Onboard Le Soleal
From the moment we set sail, the comfort and service onboard Le Soleal were outstanding. Expedition cruising doesn’t mean roughing it — quite the opposite. Between landings and zodiac excursions, we returned to warm hospitality, beautifully prepared meals, and a crew who seemed genuinely excited to share this journey with us.
Le Soleal is marked with the red icon in the left image and in the red circle on the right. Showing the remoteness of the cruise. The dark highlight of a ship in the lower part of the right image was a freight ship heading for a drop-off to McMurdo at the time.
As we made our way south, it became clear that this voyage was something truly rare. On arrival in the Ross Sea, it looked likely we would be the only ship in the region — one of the defining differences between this expedition and cruises to the Antarctic Peninsula.
A Gentle Southern Ocean (By Antarctic Standards)
We were incredibly lucky with our Southern Ocean crossing. Swells hovered around four metres — remarkably kind — and our experienced captain ensured a smooth and comfortable passage. The sense of anticipation grew with every nautical mile.
Enderby Island: Nature Sets the Rules
Our first Subantarctic landing at Enderby Island reminded us immediately who is in charge here — nature, always.
Yellow-eyes penguins in arrival
We were delayed offshore while yellow-eyed penguins made their way into the water at our landing site. Once ashore, progress was halted again by a very grumpy bull seal who had absolutely no intention of letting us pass. Nature rules. Always.
Enderby Island, part of New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands, has been pest-free since 1994. Despite rain and howling winds at the summit, the wildlife, towering mega herbs, and Rata forests made this an unforgettable visit.
Ice, Light, and the Longest Days
A planned landing at Possession Island was cancelled when wind and tides pushed pack ice against the shore. Instead, we cruised through the ice — first aboard Le Soleal, then by zodiac. With almost 24 hours of daylight, we headed out again at 7pm, determined to make the most of every moment. Thank you, Ponant.
One morning, we awoke to the announcement that we were the southernmost ship in the world, deep in McMurdo Sound. Standing on deck, surrounded by ice and silence, was a privilege that’s hard to put into words.
Orca, Fast Ice, and the Bay of Whales
One of those “pinch me” mornings: orca gliding past the ship as we woke, followed by a landing on the fast ice at the Bay of Whales — ice attached directly to the Antarctic continent. Walking on the Ice Shelf, with penguins later in the day, made for one of the most epic days I’ve ever experienced.
Penguins Everywhere
At Cape Bird, we visited a vast penguin rookery. A group of penguins at sea is called a raft; on land, a waddle — and here there were waddles as far as the eye could see. Nesting season was over, and the young penguins were shedding their baby fluff, looking delightfully disheveled as their adult feathers emerged.
Walking Through History: Scott & Shackleton
This expedition is deeply rooted in the stories of the great Antarctic explorers, and visiting their huts was profoundly moving.
At Cape Royds, we stepped inside Shackleton’s hut, astonishingly well preserved. When restoration began, the hut was packed with ice, which had to be painstakingly removed by hand, revealing an extraordinary collection of artefacts. Inside, it feels as though the explorers might return at any moment.
Shackleton's Hut
We were also fortunate to visit Scott’s Hut at Cape Evans, built during the Terra Nova Expedition (1910–1913). Many items remain exactly where they were left, shifting in and out of view each year as snow and wind reshape the landscape.
Scott's Hut
The meticulous conservation of these sites is carried out by the Antarctic Heritage Trust, who care for four historic huts in Antarctica. Their work is extraordinary, and I encourage anyone interested to explore it further at nzaht.org.
Looking Ahead: Ross Sea Expedition & Subantarctic Islands Expedition 2027
The Private Travel Company has proudly booked clients on this remarkable expedition for the past three years, and I was fortunate enough to experience it myself in 2025. Travelling aboard Le Soleal was nothing short of extraordinary — and one of the great advantages is departing directly from Dunedin, avoiding long-haul flights and the added cost and complexity of travelling via South America.
On 26 January this year, we have 13 guests boarding Le Soleal for the 2026 expedition, which includes both the Subantarctic Islands and the Ross Sea — a journey that consistently proves to be one of the most meaningful and memorable we offer.
Looking ahead, Ponant are repositioning Le Soleal to Asia, which means this expedition will operate for the final time in January 2027. This will be the last scheduled departure to the Ross Sea on Le Soleal.
We are currently holding cabins for 2027, and I strongly recommend registering your interest early — this voyage will sell out well in advance.
Subantarctic Islands & Ross Sea Expedition (Download the pdf Brochure below)
25 January – 15 February 2027 | Round-trip Dunedin
Highlights include:
UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Macquarie Island* and New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands (Enderby and the Snares islands).
The Ross Sea Region – the southernmost sea on Earth, bordered by the Ross Ice Shelf, Ross Island, and Victoria Land
Follow in the footsteps of the heroic age of Antarctic exploration and have the opportunity to explore the historic huts of Scott and Shackleton.
The opportunity to see 9 of the world's penguin species.
Opportunity to view the Ross Ice Shelf, the massive Dryglaski Ice Tongue, and the phenomenal Scott Coast.
· Journey’s end in Dunedin, New Zealand
This is expedition cruising at its most meaningful — remote, rarely visited, and rich in wildlife and history.
Don't hesitate in contacting me if you would like to discuss this cruise. I'm here to assist.
Kerry
Download the 2027 brochure and itinerary
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