Why I Fell in Love with Rwanda: Kigali, Conservation and a Remarkable Recovery
- Kerry Graham
- May 26
- 3 min read
I have fallen in love with Rwanda. This remarkable country has been on my wish list for many years, and it did not disappoint.
When I told people I was travelling to Rwanda, I was often met with questions like, “Why Rwanda?”, “What’s there?”, and “Is it safe?”. Like many people, their first thoughts immediately went to the horrific genocide of 1994.
Kwibuka, meaning “Remember” in Kinyarwanda, is an annual commemoration period that starts on 7 April lasting for 100 days. It serves as a solemn time for remembrance of the 1994 Genocide against the Tutsi. Over that period of just 100 days, more than 800,000 people were killed and over two million fled the country. A visit to the Kigali Genocide Memorial is, in my view, an essential part of understanding Rwanda. The memorial tells the story thoughtfully through an audio-guided journey across several galleries. Importantly, it is not a museum — it is a place of remembrance where many victims are buried and where Rwandans come to spend time with their loved ones.
I was unable to complete the Children’s Gallery; it was simply too heartbreaking. Yet I would still encourage visitors to experience the memorial early in their journey, as it provides important insight into the country and its people.
Genocide Memorial in Kigali
What Rwanda has achieved since then is extraordinary. The way the leadership guided the country towards reconciliation is nothing short of inspirational. Today, Rwanda is considered one of the safest countries in Africa and is frequently ranked among the safest countries in the world. How this nation has emerged from such tragedy is remarkable, and there is much other countries could learn from their example.
Modern Rwanda is progressive, forward-thinking, and community focused. Equal opportunity between men and women is genuinely visible in everyday life. Many of the bricklayers are female, there is little distinction between “men’s work” and “women’s work”, and pay parity is taken seriously. More than 65% of Rwanda’s parliament is female — go girls!
One of the first things you notice is how incredibly clean the country is. There is virtually no rubbish anywhere. This is partly due to strict environmental laws, including the ban on plastic bags, but also because of a nationwide monthly community clean-up initiative known as Umuganda.
On the last Saturday of every month, communities across Rwanda — including the President and government officials — participate in public clean-up activities. Beyond keeping the country spotless, this initiative has strengthened community spirit. People work alongside one another, chat, connect, and contribute equally to the wellbeing of their neighbourhoods. No one person is considered more important than another.
Kigali itself is a vibrant and energetic city with excellent cafés, restaurants, art galleries, and some truly fabulous coffee. It is modern, welcoming, and surprisingly sophisticated.
I would highly recommend spending at least two nights in Kigali, both to recover from jet lag and to explore the city properly before heading off on safari or gorilla trekking
adventures.
After two nights in Kigali, we set off for Akagera National Park, around four hours away. The main road was sealed and beautifully maintained, making for a smooth drive before eventually giving way to a very bumpy dirt road — our first true “African massage”!
Rwanda is known as the Land of a Thousand Hills and the drive certainly showed us why. It is a beautiful, varied and fascinating country, with rolling hills, colourful villages and bustling towns along the way. We passed many schools, with the older children smartly dressed in their uniforms. So many of the children waved enthusiastically, running alongside the vehicles and calling out “hello” as we passed.
The variety of crops and vegetation was incredible. The deep red earth looked rich enough to grow almost anything, and it seemed every piece of land was carefully utilised. Many of the crops are grown cooperatively, reflecting the strong sense of community throughout the country. A stop at a local market was great fun, with an impressive range and quality of fresh produce on display.
I would be delighted to help advise which properties and experiences may suit you best when planning a journey to this fascinating and inspiring country.
There is much more to come from my incredible journey through Rwanda, so keep an eye out for future stories — or better still, subscribe to The Private Traveller so you don’t miss out.
Kerry
Professional Travel Advisor
The Private Travel Company
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